Paint the papier mache cylinder and lid with a coat of antique white acrylic paint and allow to dry completely. Sew wood button to the front of the doll’s body. Use fabric glue to adhere eyes to the doll’s face. Tie around doll’s neck and secure with a couple of threads. Cut a strip of blue gingham fabric and fray the ends. Sew 3 buttons to the front of the hair, in the center, and 3 to the back, running thread through two buttons at once (one in back, one in front). You will need around 6 or 7 pieces of jute to complete the hair. Use a sewing needle and thread to sew the curled end of the jute pieces to the top of the head, frayed end should be pointing upward for the hair. For each piece, fray the ends halfway, leaving the other half curled. ![]() Using a length of curled jute (can be purchased in the craft store where doll hair is sold), cut into 1 1/2″ pieces. Complete the stuffing of the doll’s head and sew shut, knot off. Pause here to stuff the doll with Fiberfil, using the eraser end of a pencil to gently push the stuffing into the arms and legs. Using a darning needle and white yarn, begin at the top/center of the head and sew downward, all the way around the doll until you get to the other side of the neck. This gives it a more primitive country look. This doll is sewn on the outside, rather than sewn and turned inside out. To begin, print out the doll pattern and cut two pieces from country floral fabric, RIGHT side of fabric facing out. This is a variation of our basic Dammit Doll. Scrap of blue gingham fabric for neck bowĪcrylic paint in antique white, light brown, and country blue This doll's hair was sooooo wonky and long that I trimmed it to make it look better.A wonderful variation on our Dammit Doll - learn to make this and get your frustrations out! What you needĬountry floral fabric (half of a yard should do it!) Sometimes I trim the hair, sometimes I don't. This isn't some wonderfully, fantastic doll, it's supposed to be whacked! Don't worry about perfection on this one! Hand stitch the hair in place along the stitching line on the yarn. Sorry about the fuzzy photo, if you look closely you can see the white stitching line that goes through the yarn to secure it. Slip the yarn off your hand and use your sewing machine on a straight stitch to sew right through the middle of your yarn. The more open your hand is, the longer the strands of 'hair' you will have. Wrap about 10 wraps of Lion Brand Fun Fur (or whatever yarn you have in your stash) around you hand. Do the neatest job you can sewing up the seam. The photos I took of stitching up the open seam were terrible! Sorry about that. ![]() Stuff! I use some poly fill, but you can take apart an old stuffed animal and re-use the stuffing, or use pieces of quilt batting. I use a tube to help turning it right side out, but using a dowel or the eraser end of a pencil works fine, too. I also trim really close to the outside curving seams (you can see how close I clipped the seam around the head.) I clip everywhere there is an inside seam so rounded seams are smoother when you are done stuffing. You can see the little clips on the inside seams. Sew all the way around the doll and clip the seams. It makes it easier to sew around the curves smoothly. ![]() Set your stitch length to 1.5 (or whatever a small stitch length is on your machine). You can do it after, no worries, but it's easier when you don't have to bury the knot. Transfer the marks to the upper arm so you don't sew there.ĭammit! I forgot to sew on the face before I started sewing! It's easiest to sew the eyes and mouth on before you sew the doll together. I'm a fan of rotary cutters, but not when the curves are this tight!Īll cut out. Pin your pattern and cut out with scissors.
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